Tuesday, March 29, 2016

The Lessons Of Terezin

ISTA FESTIVAL Art at the HeART 

Day One March 10, 2016
I just walked down the hall from my room in the Park Hotel in Terezin to find all of my students congregated in a common area with other students from around the world staying in this hotel - laughing, talking, and playing games. The life energy was in itself inspiring. In one brief instant, I knew why we were here, why I had spent ten months planning this trip, and why I believe travel is the best teacher. Boundaries, boarders, hatred, distrust, fear, ignorance disappear when people form personal relationships and that is what is happening at this very moment down the hall from my room. 
Terezin is a gloomy, somewhat eerie place. I was here ten years ago and never imagined I would be back actually staying in the town – a former ghetto for the Jews awaiting transport to Auschwitz. The last time I was in Terezin, I was alone. I took myself on a side trip from Prague and experienced the power and heartache of a story that has stayed alive for one reason – Art. Much like Anne Frank’s diary, the artwork and poetry that was produced in this gray stoned fortress has kept the brief lives of the young children and teenager who were held here alive in the hearts and minds of all who have had the privilege of coming to Terezin or reading the compilation of the stories in “I Never Saw Another Butterfly.” 
Tonight, as laughter and joy echo down the hallway of this rather grim, sparse hotel – of which we are the only guests – I imagine the laughter of the children over seventy years ago in the midst of the horror of the Holocaust, here in Terezin with their teachers encouraging them to draw, paint, sing, and write their stories  – and I imagine in some way, their spirit and the spirit of the place  are one with us. Past and present came  together tonight through the laughter of young people.  My heart is full of gratitude knowing that ten years ago, I was alone here. Tonight, I am here with sixteen students passing on the lessons of Terezin.  And so our journey begins

Day Two March 11, 2016
Hard to know where or how to begin to fully capture the experiences of today. We began the day in a ballroom of the Memorial Hotel where  ISTA artists began working with the students theatrically using aspects of life in the ghetto of Terezin as the starting point. Under the harshest of conditions, art thrived in Terezin. In one exercise, a student was selected as a musical conductor and the rest of the group was divided in half. One half of the group created a chorus. The other half waited to step in as one by one members of the chorus were tapped on the shoulder slowly falling to the floor symbolizing the people who died or were taken away by transport. The chorus continued with a constant flow of people stepping in and others falling to the floor.  Then at one point, the conductor was tapped and he fell to the floor. And the singing continued.  This is an example of how theatre can bring history to life in a way that other mediums cannot.
Art was a form of resistance during the Holocaust. Cultural resistance. In Terezin, the Jews created operas, musical compositions, artwork, poetry and stories. Much of what was done was in secret, hidden from the Nazis. While in Terezin, an underground newspaper was created by some young boys as a means of communicating with one another. To simulate this, the school groups were encouraged to devise a secret method of communicating while here and to create some form of artistic work in secret. 
The group then was split into ensembles to begin the process of working together to develop a piece of theatre based on their experience in Terezin.  The students in the ensemble I observed were blindfolded before entering the space. While trust exercises are common in theatre, this took on a very different context in light of the Holocaust. The students followed each other, blindly moving slowly  into an unfamiliar room – many grasping for hands of complete strangers for safety and security. It was a powerful and visceral experience.  The group then created a series of living images or tableaux depicting life before the ghetto, being torn apart, and triumphant defiance. Finally, the ISTA artist asked each student to consider why they came to Terezin and to respond with three words.
A bit about the town itself –
The hotel we are staying in once housed the SS officers. Terezin is essentially a ghost town. The ISTA students and teachers are the only guests in the Park hotel. The town is eerily quiet. There are only 2000 residents of Terezin. The buildings are mostly vacant and the square barracks and buildings are all the same height. The Memorial Hotel where much of our ensemble work is being done is also empty. It was built with the hope of bringing some tourism and conferences to the town, but it failed. Now, like the other buildings, it is a haunting place. It feels as if we are the only people here.
 Unlike other concentration camps or labor camps, the entire town of Terezin was taken over by the Nazis as a ghetto for the Jews. But there is another aspect to the dark and sad history of this place. The Nazis used Terezin as propaganda. They “allowed” the Jews to be “self- governing.”  They even made a propaganda film depicting life in Terezin as a “spa” – and a safe place for the Jews. The Red Cross visited the ghetto and, much like visiting  a movie set, things appeared good on the surface when in fact, faucets had no running water, and people were coerced to say that life was fine in Terezin. Even the musicians were used as a propaganda tool – showing that Terezin was a cultural center for Jews.  
Today, we walked over five miles across nearly every inch of this place. Terezin’s history precedes WWII. It was built as a fortress by Emperor Josef II and was named for his wife Maria Theresa – hence Theresenstadt (Terezin). During WWII, the fortress was used by the Nazis as a prison for political prisoners. There is a huge crematorium which was only built after the Nazis ran out of space to bury the bodies of the dead. The ashes were placed in individual urns as another way of showing that they were treating the Jews well. But toward the end of the war, they wanted to dispose of any evidence and had the cremains thrown into the Elbe river.  We visited the fortress, crematorium, and heard  story after story of the cruel, inhumane treatment of the Jews in Terezin. Our guide’s family was among the victims of Terezin  - as thousands died of diseases caused by the lack of hygiene.
The students listened, respectfully and were visibly moved. Finally, after the long, cold walk through the town, we returned to the hotel for dinner.
The evening session brought everything together, as the students in eight separate groups, imagined they were opening one of the boxes of ashes before they were thrown into the Elbe. Each group then created a series of silent, imagined scenes depicting the five most significant events of that person’s life. It was performed by the entire group as a memorial to those who died in Terezin.
The result, as one student stated as we circled up to debrief, was the “single most powerful theatrical performance she had ever seen.”  We all agreed. Each of our students then had the opportunity to process out loud the most significant take away from the day.  Each shared  thoughtful and insightful  responses.  I know that the experience we are having here will work in them for the rest of their lives.
We were the last to leave the Memorial Hotel after our reflection on the day.  As we left the large ballroom, we closed the door behind us and walked the dark, bleak streets back to our hotel. And again, the life energy of our students filled the place with joy. I told our students that God is found in the joy of our lives – so while this is a heavy and sad history, they have the gift of life so celebrate that with one another. And so, they did.

 Day Three March 12, 2016
“We are so few now it is better to learn it from someone who was there. It is necessary that I come here.” Doris, A Survivor
Today we had an incredibly inspirational experience as the entire ISTA group met and had the opportunity to interview a survivor of Terezin.  Now 89 years old, she was a young girl who, as she said, spent four birthdays in Terezin from 13 years to 19 years.  Her mother died in Terezin from disease. Her father was transported to the east and perished at Auschwitz. Her brother, five years older than she, survived Auschwitz but she didn’t know that until after the liberation.
Terezin was liberated by the Russians. While they were in many ways the savior of the Jews in this part of the world, they soon dominated it through the political oppression of Communism. Czechoslovakia was officially under Communist rule from 1948 – 1989 and the history of Terezin was suppressed. Terezin was returned to its original function as a military garrison. Not until the Velvet Revolution and the fall of the Berlin Wall in 1989 did the story of Terezin begin to emerge.
“How could the clever Germans follow this evil. I still do not understand this,” Doris said.  “But in Terezin, everything was not bad. Especially for young people. The old died – many of hopelessness.”
When asked if she had heard of or knew about the other camps, she said “We didn’t know anything. It was only after the war we found out what happened to our people.”
They were permitted to bring to Terezin 50 kg of personal belongings in a suitcase. Her family was among the first transports to Terezin and she does not know why they were that “lucky.”
She lived in the Hamburg barracks with her mother. Her father and brother lived in the Sudeten barracks. The poor German Jews paid large sums of money to come to Terezin – thinking it was a “spa.”
They had high hopes when the Red Cross visited the town. The Nazis hid all people who were “not looking good” from the Red Cross. After the Red Cross left, they had little hope.
It was easier for young, strong people who could work. She tended the sheep and said the sheep saved her life.  Her first love was a Gendarme. He disallowed her from taking the train to Auschwitz with her father and intervened once to save him by getting him off the transport. He went on the next transport and he couldn’t do anything about it.  She took care of the sheep which provided clothing and food for the guards. Over her life time she collected 500 sheep figurines.
When asked if she knew that the artwork was being hidden she said, “no, it was secret. It would cost them their lives.”
Our students asked many questions including what dreams she had after the war. She was afraid of bicycles because the guards who rode bikes beat people. It was not easy. “It took a long while to be normal again.” She has one son who married an Indian woman and she has two grandchildren who are half Indian. She even made a joke about how her mixed race family defied Hitler!
She was factual. Unemotional. Non-religious though she said she believes in doing good deeds and has committed her life to this.
When asked after she was liberated, what she felt and what she had missed the most she said one word: “Freedom.”
“I hope you will have a good life. I listen to the radio and there is nothing positive.”
This is learning at its deepest level. Experiential, site specific, historical and creative.  This is Theatre On Purpose.

 Day Four March 13, 2016
Today was the day that all of the creative work and preparation done in the ensembles and in our whole group was woven into a complete piece of theatre. The process of devising original work begins with a starting point. Terezin provided a site specific starting point and the individual experiences of the students’ response to what happened here provided a deep and rich context for exploration and development. Through a variety of processes which included physical theatre, text, music, voice and imagery, students worked in four separate ensemble groups led by ISTA artists from around the world. Each night, all of the ensembles were brought together to explore some aspect of their experience from the stories of Terezin.  As one of the artists said, “Your creative self doesn’t know where it wants to go.” The magic happens as the ensembles collaborate and build on various ideas. Each student was asked to reflect on what they saw, what they heard, and what they felt as they toured the ghetto and museum filled with the drawings and poetry of the children of Terezin. From these personal responses, the theatre storytelling begins to take shape.  As a theatre educator, this is the most exciting kind of work to produce and to experience. The layering process occurs as each element of theatre storytelling is added to the process. I witnessed our students doing some incredible work with respect, integrity, commitment, and vision. Each ensemble had to identify the theme of their piece, what each of them wanted to accomplish  individually, and what impact they hoped the piece would have on the audience.  
On this final day of development, the four ensembles worked separately for three hours to create their piece. Then all four ensembles were brought together and the Artistic Director, Deborah Kidd, asked each ensemble to identify two people who knew their piece really well. To my astonishment (but not really) our Talon Theatre students were the representatives from every group! On the International stage, among eighty students, SM students stood out. It was this group who determined the order of the ensemble pieces so that the story had a cohesiveness. Keep in mind, none of the individual ensembles had seen each other’s piece so the shaping of the entire collage happened only at this point – one half an hour before the performance.
Deborah then anchored these four separate ensemble pieces with two whole group performances developed during the evening sessions. The opening set the tone by showing the five key moments in the life of one person who perished from Terezin. The closing piece was the original musical composition developed by the students . “Believe in Me” became the repeated phrase. Deborah worked the group through the transitions and the audience moved around the space to view the approximately 30 minute piece. There were moments of hope, moments of being torn apart, moments of resistance, moments of joy, moments of love all depicted through the lens of life in Terezin.  The question posed at the end of the last ensemble’s piece connected the past with the present – “What Happens Next?” The echoes of the Holocaust, its lessons, the examination of power and oppression continues to be relevant in our world. For these young teenagers, the question of “What happens next” is real….
The final sharing was profound, moving, and powerful.
We have been in another world – in an 18th century walled military garrison and former Jewish Ghetto, walking the halls where Nazi SS once walked and learning about the life, art, and culture that thrived despite horrendous conditions. The town of Terezin has some signs of life, with 2000 residents -  but mostly it is a town of desolate streets and block after block of large, vacant, haunting buildings where the artwork was hidden away until after WWII.  Artworks are still being discovered to this day.
This is the environment in which theatre students from around the world have been living for four intensely emotional days.  This is the place from which they will continue to tell the story. Terezin has taught them to stand up against persecution and oppression. Terezin has taught them the power of artistic expression. For the children of Terezin, art was essential to survival.  I believe It is essential to our own. 
Terezin has taught me that art matters and I vow never to stop fighting for its rightful and essential place in our educational system. 
Art saves lives. For anyone who doubts this truth, go to Terezin.
Terezin. Never Forget.